Things to Do at Khan el-Khalili Bazaar

The alley narrows until your shoulders nearly brush copper lanterns on both sides, and the sound shifts from Cairo's traffic chaos to rhythmic hammering. Somewhere ahead, a metalworker shapes brass by hand, using techniques unchanged since 1382 when Sultan Barquq's master of horses built the first caravanserai here.

Your senses get overwhelmed immediately: the metallic ring of hammer on brass, Arabic pop music crackling from transistor radios, the wet bubble of shisha pipes, vendors calling prices in English, French, German, and Japanese. The air tastes of cardamom, metal shavings, and burning charcoal.

Khan el-Khalili is the Middle East's oldest continuously operating bazaar, and entry costs nothing. You pay in purchases and patience. The bazaar sprawls through a maze of covered and uncovered alleys between Al-Azhar Street and the Al-Hussein Mosque, each alley specializing in different crafts.

The tourist-facing stalls offer papyrus scrolls (EGP 50-200, $1.60-$6.50 USD), alabaster figurines (EGP 100-500, $3.25-$16 USD), and pharaonic souvenirs at inflated prices. The authentic bazaar lives in deeper alleys where shop owners sip tea, negotiate in Arabic, and create actual craftswork: hand-hammered copper trays, wooden mashrabiya screens with mother-of-pearl inlay, and handblown glass that catches the filtered sunlight.

The spice section hides behind the main tourist lanes. Here, merchants sell saffron for EGP 50-100 per gram ($1.60-$3.25 USD), hibiscus flowers (karkade) for EGP 20-40 per bag ($0.65-$1.30 USD), dried mango strips, and za'atar blends at prices that make European gourmet stores look criminal.

Best visiting time: late afternoon (4:00 to 6:00 PM) when golden light slants through the covered passages and all shops are open and fully stocked. Morning visits (9:00 to 11:00 AM) offer cooler temperatures but some workshops don't open until noon.

Budget two to three hours minimum, but you could easily spend an entire day here. Bring small Egyptian pound notes for purchases and tips, because change for large bills doesn't exist in half the shops.

Bargaining is expected and essential. Start at 30% of the asking price and work toward 50-60%. If a shopkeeper immediately accepts your first offer, you've offered too much. Walk away at least once during negotiations, it's part of the dance.

Local secret: Al-Fishawi cafe has served continuous customers since 1773. Yes, it's touristy now, but the mint tea (EGP 30-50, $1-$1.60 USD) remains excellent, the Turkish coffee (EGP 20-30, $0.65-$1 USD) is properly thick and sweet, and the original brass mirrors reflect lamplight beautifully after sunset.

Physical warning: the alleys are uneven stone, often wet from shop cleaning, and sometimes crowded enough that you'll bump elbows with strangers. Not suitable for wheelchairs or large luggage.

Khan el-Khalili exhausts you, overwhelms your senses, and remains absolutely essential to understanding Cairo.